Most of us take so much pride in growing our trees and vines that the thought of cutting on it thoroughly horrifies us. Of course, if we truly “love” our plants we will take the appropriate action to ensure that they will be capable of peak production performance when the time comes. This “appropriate action” to which I refer is pruning. Homeowners must be brave! Pruning a “loved” tree or vine is sort of like spanking your naughty child; you know it’s going to be best for all parties concerned.
Why prune at all? There are several very important reasons why we should prune. First of all, pruning promotes large, well- flavored fruit. Remember, plants are like people – – they have certain limitations. It is impossible for a plant to produce the quality of fruit which we desire when it is allowed to mature the quantity of fruit which it is capable of maturing. By proper pruning techniques, we can remove some of the fruit buds which would mature fruit. By having to mature fewer fruit the tree can concentrate all available nutrients into those few fruit and consequently produce the large, juicy product which we desire. Another valuable advantage of pruning is to establish a proper framework. A strong framework can support more fruit which should be evenly distributed throughout. This will prevent tree breakage when fruit begins to grow and mature. One of the most often overlooked, and possibly the most important, aspects of proper pruning is the fact that pruning serves to modify growth conditions. This simply refers to a previous statement that plants, like people, are capable of only so much production. The production of a plant during the growing season largely depends upon the vigor of the plant during the preceding year. If a tree or vine is allowed to overproduce, which will be caused by pruning neglect, a smaller amount of shoot growth and metabolite storage will occur. It will be weakened, and normal production will be decreased in the following year.
I have not told you exactly how to prune the different fruit and nut trees. That is because each tree is an individual and requires a different approach. Each pruner is different and wants a certain product or shape in his tree. There are books and publications which give specifics, and I would encourage you to get these if you have some plants to prune. Following are general pruning descriptions of the most common fruit.
As the old saying goes: There IS a right way to do things. Tree limb removal is no different. When shortening a branch or twig, the proper procedure involves cutting it back to a side branch or make this cut one-fourth inch above a dormant bud. Dormant buds are at the bases of all leaves. When removing large branches, three or four cuts are necessary to avoid tearing the bark. Make the first cut on the underside of the branch about 18 inches from the trunk. Undercut one-third to one-half way through the branch, but stop before the saw binds. The second cut should be made an inch further out on the branch; cut until the branch breaks free. If the stub is small enough, hold it with one hand and use the other hand to cut the branch stub. The cut should be made just beyond the branch collar swelling. This collar contains chemicals that inhibit the invasion of decay organisms. If the branch is too large to be held in one hand, undercut it with the third cut, and cut it through with the fourth cut from the top down.
Proper cuts heal rapidly. Make cuts just outside the natural “collar” where the branch to be removed attaches to the trunk or a larger limb. Don’t leave a stub, which only invites decay into the tree, and don’t cut them back flush against the trunk. Wound sealer products are not necessary, with the exception of deterring oak wilt, and then only if applied immediately. These pruning paints may be of some benefit if used properly and maintained through follow up applications.
